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    <header class="post-header">
      <h1 class="post-title">2017深秋举家北京行</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2018-07-28 </span>
        <div class="post-category">
            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
            </div>
          <span class="more-meta"> 约 2694 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 6 分钟 </span>
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    <div class="post-toc" id="post-toc">
  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
  <div class="post-toc-content always-active">
    <nav id="TableOfContents">
  <ul>
    <li><a href="#11-2-北京">11-2 北京</a></li>
    <li><a href="#11-3-慕田峪">11-3 慕田峪</a></li>
    <li><a href="#11-4">11-4</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#颐和园">颐和园</a></li>
        <li><a href="#圆明园">圆明园</a></li>
      </ul>
    </li>
    <li><a href="#11-5">11-5</a></li>
  </ul>
</nav>
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</div>
    <div class="post-content">
      <div class="admonition abstract"><p class="admonition-title">绪</p>
<p>2017年秋末，带父母和女儿去北京轻度游了一回。行程是临时决定的，两天时间也做不到斑斓跌宕，所以当下并未置笔留念。如今年深日久，清理照片时勾起一些回忆。故将照片存个档，补记流水于此。</p>
</div>
<p>​选北京做目的地主要还是了母亲心愿。她说，自己从未去过北京，非要定个心愿单的话，北京算一个。但​说实话，我对北京感受并不好。前次去还是五六年前，实在太干燥，出了不少鼻血（这次也差一点）。更早一次去，恰逢国庆，满坑满谷都是游客，绿地里大喇叭播放着风格妖孽的民俗乐，配着红旗招展，画风怪异，令人生厌。不过此番的感受好多了。主要归功于慕田峪、圆明园和晴好的天气。去帝都，还是要扬长避短，领略它雄奇端庄、稳重大气的部分。</p>
<p></p>
<h2 id="11-2-北京">11-2 北京</h2>
<p>来回皆高铁，虹桥 &lt;&ndash;&gt; 北京南，比以前坐飞机便捷不少（缺点是安检依然繁琐恼人）。酒店选在西直门旁边，于是市内交通也甚为方便。</p>
<p>最重要的成功要素则是天气。原本这个时节去帝都是下下策，因为国庆蓝已成往事，雾霾正卷土重来。行前几日，帝都空气质量已经爆过一次表。但巧在偏偏11月头上这几日空气质量极好，蓝天白云通透喜人，一直持续到我们走的那天。</p>
<p>帝都行常可有，而狗屎运不常有。​值得大书特书。</p>
<p>到帝都已是中午。下午天安门打卡（略）。顺道进故宫一逛（略）。​</p>
<p>之所以统统略，是因为时间太短，基本都走马观花。​上一次去故宫，还开开心心瞻仰了石鼓，这次什么都没看着。</p>
<p>晚饭去了网红烤鸭新秀 四季民福。装修也是民国风，但不像全聚德那么大红大绿暄腾热闹。候座区坐得满满当当。菜色多数已无甚印象，不过主打菜烤鸭脆皮沾糖粒相当值得称道。</p>
<p>夜逛正阳门和前门大街，花花绿绿的民国cosplay。略。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">提示</p>
<ol>
<li>故宫已然不卖纸质门票了，必须在线买票，凭码入园。</li>
<li>作为手残星人，手机调了个鬼模式，所以每张照片都带了时间戳。忍一下吧。</li>
</ol>
</div>
<h2 id="11-3-慕田峪">11-3 慕田峪</h2>
<p>清晨在酒店旁的山西面馆包餐了一顿，决定避开八达岭，转而去慕田峪。八达岭是团客打卡处，人山人海而且坡度更大。我拖家带口，不如换个思路去散客打卡地。那就只能连带放弃明十三陵，直奔慕田峪。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6y7qYl2d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：慕田峪长城景区入口</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>天朗气清，万里无云，在暮秋的北京能有这种天气着实不易。当日的PM2.5很可能低于50。但气温已经很凉，背阴处阴冷逼人。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6yclDRfb.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：慕田峪长城选段</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>11月的慕田峪秋意已浓，山腰以下层林尽染，黄赤间绿，与灰色的民居院落参差掩映，很壮丽。</p>
<p>这是我本人初攀长城，有几段颇陡峭，烽火台的台阶也并不像想象的那么好爬。不过人很少，感受颇佳。女儿头一回登这类雄奇的建筑，十分兴奋。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6CM8Xua8.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：慕田峪长城秋景</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>慕田峪景区有一个特别不帝都的特点：工作人员极有礼貌。我对帝都有限的经验是服务行业普遍高傲粗鲁。但慕田峪的工作人员十分不同，不亢不卑，但处处贴心照应。</p>
<p>比较好笑的是慕田峪的长城展览馆，里面像模像样展出了很多名窑古瓷，比如汝窑笔洗这种。清清冷冷放在玻璃罩里，理论上每件价值一两个亿。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6GWpcF85.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：慕田峪长城展览馆宋瓷笔洗，真伪你猜</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在我们热火朝天爬长城时，领队同志默默地独自去开会了。这是她发来的西直门地铁现场实况。果真是扶梯上也站满了人。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6PNswR4d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：作为对照的地铁党</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>下午回市内，本想去一趟天坛，然而四点就不再售票了。悻悻而去。</p>
<p>天坛旁的免费公园区，连廊里坐满了中老年人。打牌、聊天，充满了烟火气。​</p>
<p>夜过天安门广场转车，广场东缘偶遇一辆后窗涂满字的晋F福特，上书“老子北京人，特马摇不上号”。作为桂牌车主，完全理解这种心情。不过我猜这墙根应该是不给停车的。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mpdg6SuUc4.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：挂晋F牌的帝都车主之咆哮</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吃饭</p>
<p>慕田峪不用太担心吃饭问题，景区入口一路都是餐馆，价格也不算特离谱。</p>
</div>
<h2 id="11-4">11-4</h2>
<p>第二日​主要在海淀活动。天气依然晴好。不过这是周末了，北京人也都出来活动，较前一日拥挤不少。一出地铁站，街道上就像赶集似的摩肩接踵。</p>
<h3 id="颐和园">颐和园</h3>
<p>​第一站是颐和园。秋意不深，树还都绿。感觉和春天去差别不大。</p>
<p>北宫门入园不久便是苏州街。绕水布了一条街，原本是乾隆帝后玩市民生活cosplay的。然而明眼人一看就发现太皇家范儿了，苏州都是黑白色系，哪有这么花哨。缘水走了一圈，路太窄、人太多，不如桥上俯瞰。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6Tx6oxb1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：颐和园苏州街</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>出苏州街，向南爬上万寿山。先过须弥灵境四大部洲那一滩藏式建筑，到得佛香阁。四大部洲这一大片早在英法联军破帝都时就被毁了。1980年重修一次， 2010年又重修，方有今貌。</p>
<p>佛香阁没有进，但从此处下望，昆明湖尽收眼底。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6TBV4e72.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：上眺颐和园佛香阁</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6Xxrjr09.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：昆明湖波光</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>晴秋日看昆明湖，一片波光。于是我并不免俗地在岸边拍了一张打卡照。入秋已久，岸柳尚绿。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo6YXTFR27.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：颐和园实地打卡</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​之后从紫气东来关东行，出东宫门便离开了。</p>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">买票</p>
<p>苏州街、佛香阁都要格外买票。</p>
</div>
<h3 id="圆明园">圆明园</h3>
<p>出颐和园后还是打了个车，从南门进圆明园。</p>
<p>圆明园有三园，雍正时只有一个圆明园，乾隆后慢慢扩建出长春园和绮（万）春园。咸丰中皆毁。如今万春园相当一部分其实已在清华大学内。​</p>
<p>绮春园内并未久留，因为道路整葺，和普通的市民公园没有两样。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7motLbJy6ee.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明三园</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>越往里走，格调就越高。本以为圆明园到处是大水法遗址那样一派苍凉的断垣残壁，实际多数遗迹已经不存，只有生机盎然的古木。那些幸免于大火的银杏和高柳如今都像巨人一样。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73pznWe0.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园银杏大道</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>前一日没能进到天坛，错过了银杏大道。但圆明园内的银杏，规模更大。地面上的银杏落叶厚达数寸，很多人欢天喜地地抱着落叶抛洒。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73sGIZfd.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园银杏大道</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>沿银杏大道西行，来到园内最大的湖泊福海。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73xydL25.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园福海</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73znyhe1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园福海</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>福海周边有很多屈曲的水系，野趣盎然，人迹罕至。走了一圈，心情舒畅。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mormxJmt1d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园福海</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mormCHfa28.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园福海</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>夕阳渐渐西下，光束从苇丛中射下，金光灿灿。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73EkH4ce.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园芦苇夕照</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>夕阳孤悬在福海上空。草木苍翠，宫台颓圻；抚今视昔，凝古怀幽。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73VlEyae.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：圆明园芦苇夕照</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>看过圆明园的纪录片后，原本对九州清晏一带兴趣很大。整个圆明三园最重要的宫台殿宇，主要就建在这里，完全是离宫的形制。但走去一看，几乎了无残迹，只有几处房基，水岸芦苇。很难凭空想象出原先的规摩。</p>
<p>歇息一阵，掉头东去。长春园也不小，但已来不及都走遍，于是直接往东北。这里是西洋楼和大水法遗迹，也是最主要的打卡处。​</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo73Wnum36.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：西洋楼遗存</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo74f0dt2b.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：西洋楼遗存</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo74lThsce.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：西洋楼遗存</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo74xrSmee.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：大水法遗存</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>实地看到这些断垣残壁，还是颇为震撼。不过也就是作为苦难见证的意义较大罢了。在艺术上，乾隆的这些西洋恶趣味我瞧不大上。假如圆明三园并未被毁过，那么我宁可在圆明园逛一天，也不太愿意跑长春园看这几个玩意儿。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2018/0728/001ZzLsRzy7mo74J1tH2d.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图：大水法遗存</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>整个行程，圆明园最令我满意，主要是我此前从未去过的缘故。野趣、廓大、沧桑，符合一切对帝都的美学想象。​</p>
<h2 id="11-5">11-5</h2>
<p>次日，修整一番，从北京南搭高铁回到虹桥。行程完。像这样和父母同游的机会并不多，内容虽少，却很宝贵。​</p>
<p>[完]</p>
<hr>
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<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/QRcode.jpg"
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